Next after a hard frost, it�s time to cut roses back to about 12
to 18 inches tall. Make sure when pruning to make good, clean cuts right
above the growing point on a stem, the node. Dead stems should be cut back
all the way to the ground.
Once pruning is completed, next gather quality topsoil from another
part of the garden. Sandy soil is preferable to a humusy mix. With this
soil we are going to pile and pat firmly around the base of the rose. The
mound serves as an insulation to the soil keeping the cold in the root
zone. This step is for prevention of temperature fluctuations which might
induce the rose to start growing on a warmer winter day.
Next we need to create a cylinder out of chicken wire, prepare
this a bit higher than the bush and large enough to fit over and around
it. Stake is down with either metal or wooden stakes to ensure that it
will with stand harsh winds. Another option is purchasing a rose cone.
They are a styrofoam dome that will serve a growers� needs, although be
aware on sunny days they can become extremely warm damaging the plant.
Minimization can be taken by not placing them over the roses until the
ground is near freezing, early to mid-November. Air wholes or a removable
top is key for vitalization of the cone and avoiding damaging heat.

Either your choice of the cylinder or rose cone need to be filled
with mulch. It�s important that the mulch doesn�t compact during the winter.
So a good option would be one like pine needles. Some other insulation
options are bark chips or leaves. Fill completely over the rose and around
six to 12 inches below the top of the cylender if you have the space. The
mulch helps to minimize the possible damage that can come from temperature
fluctuations.
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