Successfully Planting a Lawn
By Matt Kieselbach

A lush green lawn can add value to your property
and beautify any landscape. It is as valuable to any landscape design as
flower beds, trees, and shrubs. To succeed in planting a beautiful lawn
one must follow a series of steps to ensure that the lawn will be
successful. Following these ten steps will ensure a healthy, weed free,
lush green lawn.
1. WHEN TO PLANT:
The preferred time to plant a lawn is
in the fall when weeds are at their lowest growth cycle. Also this will allow
the root system to develop over the winter in preparation for the hot and dry
summer months. In mild coastal areas planting can take place at any time. But
some special requirements will have to be met. Spring is a good time to plant
lawns if a proper weed control program is first implemented
2. CULTIVATE SOIL/ORGANIC MATERIAL:
Plow, rototill, hand dig or somehow
breakup the soil and amend with humus, ground bark, aged sawdust or wood
shavings to allow for good root and water penetration of the soil. This
operation is the most important part of the whole process if you want a healthy
drought tolerant lawn it will need deep roots.
3. PREPLANT WEED CONTROL:
Incorporate fertilizer and level to
final grade. Water the soil frequently for at least two weeks to germinate any
weed seeds. Spray with a contact weed killer (ROUND-UP has proven very
effective) following manufacturers instructions carefully. Weeds should be dead
within 4 to 5 days. Resume watering one day after spraying for an additional 7
days, If more weeds appear, spray again. Do not pull weeds or cultivate the area
after last kill. This will bring unwanted weed seed to the surface.
4. RAKE THE SURFACE SMOOTH:
Lightly rake the surface to break up
the crust formed by your watering cycles.
5. SCATTER SEEDS:
Sow at the recommended seeding rate.
Sow 1/4 of the seed to the entire area in one application. Follow with the next
three applications in different directions. When spreading by hand it may be
helpful to add sand or sawdust with the seed mix. For best results use a hand
crank operated seed spreader.
6. RAKE SEED INTO THE SURFACE LIGHTLY:
Using a bamboo or fan rake, brush the
seed barely under the soil. Roll the surface with an empty lawn roller to set
the seed in contact with the soil.
7. MULCH LIGHTLY:
This is optional, though mulching with
1/8th inch of a rich organic soil, sawdust or peat moss will provide shade to
new seedlings and help retain moisture.
8. LAWN WATERING:
Water seeds in thoroughly with a fine
mist nozzle. Depending on the time of year, the seed bed may take as many as 5
short cycles per day. Germination will occur within the first week for some
grasses while others may take as long as 21 days. For this reason: YOU MUST KEEP
SEED BED DAMP UNTIL ALL SEED HAS GERMINATED. HOWEVER, DO NOT OVER WATER! Reduce
the number of cycles per day to just keep the surface damp.
9. BEFORE MOWING:
After 3 weeks most of the seed will be
germinated and you can cut back on the number of watering cycles. When the grass
gets to two or three inches in height. Allow the seed bed to dry out just enough
so that you can walk lightly on it without leaving footprints. Roll the new lawn
with a water filled lawn roller to set the seedlings firmly in the soil. Mow the
lawn with a sharp blade mower set at a 2" cutting height.
10. FERTILIZE:
This will be a good time to apply more
fertilizer. Your new lawn has just been mowed and it needs water. before
watering chose the proper type of fertilizer (this depends on the time of year)
and broadcast at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. Then water in
thoroughly to prevent burning of your new seedlings. Watering cycles should be
set to maintain 1 to 2 1/2 inches of water per week, depending on your location,
i,e, 1" for coastal areas and 2 1/2" for inner valley areas.
Lawn Seeding Links
http://www.hewitts.com/info/garden/lawnseeding.htm
http://www.bachmans.com/retail/tipsheets/lawn/seedingyourlawn.cfm
Sodding and Hydroseeding Links
http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/plants/BG540.html
http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/ay28.htm
http://www.ajcamerons.com/hydroseeding.htm