lec2

PLSC 368: Lecture 13

TECHNIQUES OF BUDDING

I. PRINCIPLES

A. The bark on the stock must be 'slipping'

-'Slipping' --- being capable of separating the bark (tissue consisting of periderm, cortex,
phloem, cambium) from the wood xylem

B. 'Budding' or bud graft utilizes only one bud per graft

C. Usually young plants or young branches are used

D. Faster in operation than the stem graft

- 2000-3000 buddings per day per person
- High success rate ~90%)

*E. Results in a stronger union than is obtained by grafting methods

II. TIME OF BUDDING

    A. Fall Budding (July - September)
            -During late summer - early fall
                (before the bark adheres to the wood)
            -Select buds that are vegetative, not flower buds
                vegetative buds are small, pointed
                flower buds are large, more round, more developed

            -The stock and bud union takes place in 2-3 weeks
                removal of the rootstock stem just above the budding is delayed until the union is completed
                    (usually in the next spring)
            -The decapitaiton removes apical dominace, forcing the bud break
            -Late fall budding must be avoided in northern areas

    B. Spring Budding (March - April)
            -Performed when active growth of the rootstock commences
            -Use dormant buds
                usually bud woods are harvested in late fall or winter and stored in cold (-2 to 0° C)
                    until use
            -Spring budding is more successful in some species

    C. June Budding (late May - June)
            -Use currently gowing budwood and rootstock stems
            -Used to obtain 'one-year-old' budded plants in a single growing season
            -Mostly done in regions with a long growing season (souther states, CA)
            -Mostly for stone fruits (peaches, almond, apricot, plums)

III. METHODS OF BUDDING
A. T-Budding (shield budding)

            -T-like cut on the stock, and a shield-like bud piece
            -Commonly used for stems of 6-25 mm (.25-1 in) diameter
            -Budding usually at 5-25 cm above the soil line
            -Used for most fruit trees, roses, many ornimentals

B. Inverted T-Budding

            -The same as T-bud except the cut is an inverted T-cut
            -Practiced in regions more rainy during budding season
                    allows better drainage
            -Care must be taken to insert buds in the correct direction of polarity

C. Patch Budding

            -Cut on the stock in a rectangular patch, removing the patch of bark completely
            -Insert the same size patch with a bud
            -Used for thick-barked trees
                    Walnuts, pecans, ficus, hevea (rubber tree)
            -Patch budding tools
                        double-bladed knives
                        rectangular cutting blades

D. I-Budding

-Similar to the patch budding
-I-cut with varying sizes

            -Variation in I-Budding
                -patch bud
                -flute bud
                -ring bud

E. Chip Budding

            -A chip of bark containing a bud is used
          *-Practiced for budding when bark is not 'slipping'
            -The shape and size of cut on the stock must be the same as those of the bud chip
            -Widely used in grapes, many woody ornamentals, fruits

IV. UNUSUAL BUDDING METHODS

    A. Topbudding
            -The same as 'topworking' except budding is used in place of grafting
            -Performed for changing cultivar or rejuvenating
            -Generally performed during spring, summer

    B. Double-Working by Budding
            -Use of an interstock between the rootstock and scion bud
            -Normally takes two years

    C. Microbudding
            -Small size buds are used
            -Used in citrus in Australia
                    can be used for shrubs, woody ornamentals
            -Can also be used in tissue culture
                    usually micrografting